Things to Do in Izmir

Kemeralti Bazaar and the Kizlaragasi Han

A maze of narrow lanes spreading out behind Konak Square, Kemeralti has been Izmir's commercial heart since the 17th century. The air smells of roasting coffee. You'll see mountains of olives and pickled chilies in glass jars, and hear shopkeepers calling out prices over the clatter of carts. The restored Kizlaragasi Han caravanserai at its center is the photogenic anchor: Ottoman stonework, two floors of jewelry and carpet stalls, and a tea garden in the middle that's been there forever.

Kordon waterfront and the sunset ferry

The Kordon is Izmir's long seafront promenade. It runs from Konak up through Alsancak. Locals treat it like a giant outdoor living room. Tea gardens line the grass. Horse-drawn carriages clatter past. Touristy, sure. The horses look well-kept though. Around 7pm the whole city seems to migrate here to watch the sun drop behind the gulf. Hop the public ferry across to Karsiyaka and back for the price of a bus ride. That's the view people pay tour boats double for.

Ephesus day trip

An hour south of Izmir, Ephesus is the real showstopper of the Turkish coast. Marble streets to walk down. The towering facade of the Library of Celsus. A 25,000-seat amphitheater where you can still hear someone whisper from the top row. Pair it with a stop at the House of the Virgin Mary uphill. Lunch in Sirince village. The village does decent fruit wines and Aegean village food.

Kadifekale fortress and the climb up

The 'Velvet Castle' crowns the hill above the city. The ruins themselves are modest. The climb through the old neighborhoods to reach it is half the appeal. You'll pass laundry strung between balconies. Kids kicking footballs in tiny squares. Tea houses where regulars look up curiously as you walk by. The view from the top spreads the whole gulf out below. Best photographed in the late afternoon, when the light turns the water bronze.

Alacati and Cesme peninsula escape

An hour west of Izmir, the Cesme peninsula has cobblestone-laned Alacati village (whitewashed houses, purple bougainvillea, design-hotel boutiques), the windsurfing bays that draw international competitions every summer, and thermal springs at Sifne that bubble up right next to the sea. Izmirlis themselves vanish here on summer weekends. That tells you something.

Alsancak is the going-out neighborhood. Cafe streets and small hotels, easy walk to the Kordon.

Konak sits central and transport-connected. Close to the bazaar and main sights, with less atmosphere at night.

Karsiyaka sits across the gulf. Quieter and more residential, with a lovely ferry commute back to the action.

Bornova is student-heavy and budget-friendly. Good metro links, further from the waterfront.

Cesme sits out on the peninsula. A beach-base option if you've got a few days and want sea over city.

Pasaport is a small pocket between Konak and Alsancak. Boutique stays, old waterfront buildings.